There is a new venture in Glasgow’s Merchant City, Central Market, which is already causing a stir. Food critic Joanna Blythman gave it a 9/10 in a recent review saying, “there is something purposeful and fresh about the whole set-up” before going on to rave about the food.
It has the feeling of a New York style eatery with it’s clean and airy feel, black slate floor, lots of white tiling and exposed sandstone, but actually it takes its nod from the Fruit Markets in Glasgow in the early 19th century.
It’s located over two floors, with the upper mezzanine overlooking the open kitchen and restaurant below. The dominant colours are grey, white and black with the only colour coming from the wine and flowers on the bar and strategically placed greenery.
It’s not just the decor that is colour co-ordinated the staff are too – wearing white tops and black trousers, a black apron and trainers.
With floor to ceiling windows you get a good impression of Central Market even before you come through the door. It’s on a corner site, which allows plenty of light to filter through creating a spacious, airy feel. As you come through the main door on the left you will find floor to ceiling shelves with various deli-style oils and other goods including freshly baked bread and other delicacies, all available to buy.
Owner David Leishman told DRAM, “The idea for this place has been in my head for years. I kind of knew what I wanted and worked with the principal designers to put it into place. But the inspiration came from places that I have seen in the States, There are a lot of places there, even in Austin, Texas where my sister lives, that have a similar vibe and in London too.”
He continues, “I wanted to create something more original for Glasgow, rather than a generic looking place. I supposed I
wanted to go against the grain a bit. I like to use the word ‘fresh’ when describing Central Market.”
The focal point is the open kitchen and bar area. And you cannot miss the iced area on which are perched fresh oysters, and often the catch of the day. It’s almost a piece of art. While the sile stone counter gives a really nice cold clean finish, and David tells us it’s “very hygienic too.”
The bar area also houses lots of wine, and hanging glasses – it’s obvious space is at a premium, in fact there is only one draught beer, Birra Moretti and every inch in this area has been utilised.
Down the right hand side of the restaurant there are stools on which to perch while you dine at the bar, and there are also
a few posing tables, ideally situated to watch the world go by.
Says David, “My favourite bit is this area. The whole point of the bar is to try to encourage people to eat there. In the states everyone wants to sit at the bar and eat at the bar, and I always knew that’s what I wanted to put in my place, along with an open kitchen.”
The main part of the eating area has a few traditional, marble topped tables complete with original original thonet bent wood chairs. Not too many, but just enough.
In fact the whole place only has a capacity of 55 covers. David comments, “I have tried to create a cafe atmosphere
during the day, offering breakfast and lunch – we don’t set the tables, and then at night we do set them and it turns into a
restaurant.”
The stairs to the mezzanine are on the left of the kitchen and the steel stairs are very industrial chic. While on the mezzanine you will find stained oak bench seating with leather seat pads. Says David, ‘I wanted to get away from traditional fixed upholstered seating.”
The light fittings are quite minimalist, again they have a non-fussy industrial chic look, in fact they could have been hanging in the fruit market all these years ago. The balcony is formed from spoked steel, which allows you to see what is going on throughout the whole restaurant, helped by a large mirror which is located on the stairwell wall.
It really is a bit different. Perhaps the last word should go to Joanna Blythman, “It’s just what Glasgow needs.”
Susan Young
